Most of us think of car parts in terms of carburetors, engines, transmissions, brakes, and so on. The most common part in any car isn’t really noticed at all until you take one apart. Even then you don’t think much about it until it comes time to put the car back together again and, suddenly,…
As a follow-up to Back to the Basics – Gasoline! (Under the Bonnet, Spring 1993), we thought it appropriate to offer a refresher on how to prep your car’s gas tank and apply sealing compound. After reading the article, many customers expressed concern about the additives in modern gasoline breaking down or eating away at…
We regularly receive questions relating to the demise of leaded gasoline and the effects of no-lead fuels on British sports car engines. Some years ago we addressed most aspects of this issue but since full solutions weren’t available at that time, (but are now) it’s appropriate to take a fresh look at a serious problem…
Stretched Head Studs? During an engine rebuild, be sure and check the condition of the head studs. They should be straight, with the threads clean and tight in the block. They should not have damaged threads or be “stretched”-this occurs after being torqued and re-torqued, used and re-used (a common event in a 30 year…
One of the simplest but most useful pieces of tune-up equipment is the cylinder-leakage tester. It can tell you if your engine has damaged valves, worn rings, a blown head gasket or a cracked block, thereby pinpointing compression leakage. The cylinder-leakage, or leak-down, tester operates on a simple principle: A cylinder with its piston at…
Car oil change is probably our least favorite maintenance activity, but is the most important of all for ensuring long engine life. Engine oil serves two major functions: lubrication and cooling. Moving parts rely on a very thin film of oil to prevent frictional wear, and the circulating oil absorbs a good amount of heat…
A “Knock Knock” That Was No Joke A knock in a worn engine is relatively easy to diagnose, but what about a knock in a freshly rebuilt engine? Especially one which has been assembled with great care in respect of bearing clearances and piston fit? We recently came across a very annoying problem which had…
At the risk of boring some of you who already know the procedures for rebuilding an automotive engine, this article will discuss general engine rebuilding principals. During disassembly, look for wear and damage. Keep bearings, rocker arms, push rods, connecting rods, and pistons in sequence. You can then go back to that part of the…
The “obsolete” hand crank (or “starting handle”) is still a valuable tool for turning an engine over slowly to adjust valves, point gaps, and even to start the engine when all else fails. While hand cranking an engine is not difficult, it is often frustrating and can be dangerous if the following procedures are not…
BMC “Confidential Service Memorandum” 16 June 1961. Oil Filter Overtightening the filter center fixing bolt can cause the cause rubber seal (joint ring) to split with consequent oil leakage. When replacing an element, the center bolt should be tightened to a maximum torque figure of 15 lbs. ft. (2.08 kg. m.).
