Timing Cover seal Installation

If your big six is leaving misty tracks on the bonnet and frame in line with the crankshaft pulley, take heart. The cure is not painful.
First, purchase a new timing cover gasket and a new oil seal. 100-4 uses Moss #021-051, 100-6/3000 uses #535-111. Special tools include a 1 -11/16 inch socket with a ¾” drive, breaker bar and possibly a 6 inch C-clamp.
Remove the radiator, hoses, fan, front air cleaner and pull the throttle linkage shaft out of the firewall bushing. Loosen all motor mount bolts at the frame until they are held by just a few threads.
Using a suitable jack, raise the engine against the bolt heads. After knocking the locking tab back, remove the crankshaft nut. The crank will likely turn with the nut. The starter should be removed and a large screw driver struck in the starter hole against the flywheel ring gear. Removing the nut is the toughest part of the operation and may require a sharp blow to the breaker bar so protect your fenders!
With the nut off, completely remove engine mount bolts and raise engine until clearance between the frame and the pulley damper is sufficient. Watch the exhaust system for excessive strain. Remove the damper by either a puller or tapping with a hammer.
The engine can now be lowered to a convenient height. Remove the timing chain cover. Don’t forget a pan to catch the oil. Remove and replace the oil seal checking the slack in the timing chain and rubber block on the tensioner for wear. Burnish the outer diameter on the pulley that contacts the seal so that the sealing surface is smooth. Oil the new seal then refit the timing chain cover very loosely so that the pulley will center itself. NOTE: If you removed the oil slinger be sure to reinstall concave side frontwards before fitting the cover. Raise the engine as required to reinstall the pulley/damper. Fit the nut with the tab washer. The tab washer has a keyway in it but it won’t fit over the crankshaft, so a drop of Locktite is an extra precaution. Tighten to 70 ft-lbs and bend over the tab. Tighten the cover bolts and lower the engine. Use a long punch to align motor mount holes; the C-clamp can also be useful to squeeze the sides of the mount as required.
Reinstall the fan, radiator, etc. Start the engine and check for leaks. The engine compartment should now stay a lot cleaner.