Overheating may be caused by improper point gap, incorrect timing, a bad radiator cap, sludge in the cooling system, dragging brakes, loose fan belt, defective thermostat (or no thermostat) or no water in the system. Check these first if you have an overheating problem.
Over tightening the filter center fixing bolt can cause the cause rubber seal (joint ring) to split with consequent oil leakage. When replacing an element, the center bolt should be tightened to a maximum torque figure of 15 lbs. ft. (2.08 kg. m.)
MGB Hood Release Cable
The hood release cable on my ’75 MGB has always been a source of lurking mistrust, ever since I purchased the car several years ago. If the cable should break at the release mechanism or become otherwise disabled (i.e., my kind of luck), it would be necessary to cut the grille screen or other adjacent panel to gain access to the release lever actuated by the cable.
An easy solution to this potential nightmare dilemma is provided by a common plastic wire-tie. Install a heavy-duty 14” length wire-tie as follows. Form the loop end around the under-hood release lever tip as shown. Route the remaining wire-tie length over the top of the cable sheath and through the panel hole used for the hood safety catch. (Route must provide smooth pull-action for the tie.)
Tuck the tail of the tie in position along the grille screen, so that it can be easily accessed by reaching through the cutout in the rubber bumper (right-hand side, facing car). Your emergency hood release cable is ready if needed.
TR2-6 Shift Lever Rattle Repair
If your shift lever rattles, or you are assembling a car, the lack of available parts to correctly install this shifter need no longer put you off. as with about 3 dollars, rattle-free driving is within reach.
The original Triumph shop floor modification (see sketch) called for a .250” diagonal hole at the bottom of the lever, into which a short spring and hardened steel plunger were placed to keep the lever from vibrating. While neither of those are avail able, .250’ (1/4”) steel ball bearings (#329-510) and a 5/8” long x ¼” diameter steel spring from a hardware store or machine shop accomplishes the same purpose, and the ball bearings are harder than the ¼’ drill rod originally used!
To remove the shift lever, with the transmission in neutral, extract the bolt (use 2 7/16” wrenches) that secures the shift lever cap. 0’ this bolt shows undue wear, replace with Moss #848-190.) Gently and evenly pry the cap (use 2 large screw drivers) up wards. (Before replacement, remove (sanding) the corrosion from the aluminum housing so that the cap fits snugly). Carefully remove the shift lever so that the existing (II still present) plunger can be recovered. If such is the case, clean the caked grease from the hole, replace the spring with one ¾” long x ¼” diameter and reinstall. If the plunger is gone (!) replace the spring with the ¼” steel ball bearing and a new spring. Buy at least 2 ball bearings, as they are easily launched during replacement!
Failures of the right angle speedometer drive adaptors are often caused by the required washer (Moss 324-720) not being installed. This causes excessive end load and premature failure of the angle drive’s pinion.
Time for Bodywork?
When finishing body repairs, try to keep the grinding, filing, and sanding strokes horizontal rather than vertical, especially on large relatively flat areas. This helps to provide light reflections which minimize any ripples or waves in the panel. Vertical strokes can make a straight panel look wavy, even when it’s not!